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DO NOT waste lure by adding it to timbers which do not contain live termites. The colony is murdered only if workers take enough of the bait back to the nest. And they'll only take it if they can harvest it, undisturbed, from inside the damaged lumber you've found. .
See the uneven surface of the window frame. Termites had eaten out it, in certain areas leaving only the paint.
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Create an opening into the termites using a pointed knife or fine screwdriver. The hole should be no larger than about 5mm diameter to begin with. (It ought to be enlarged only when it is time to bring the cache of bait). You can pry into the surface of the wood in which it seems spongy, thin or hollow.
It's only as a last resort you should attempt to open a tunnel on a wood or foundation surface. .
Once you have broken through into where it's hollow, wait for a minute or so. If termites are not there, the soldiers usually come to guard the opening while workers repair it. You may see their antennae and their heads blocking the hole. If no live pollutants appear, leave the hole open and return later or test next moment.
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This reveals the way planters will come out from the infested timber into a foil covered mass of lure taped into the surface. Alternatively, if the surface is flat, the feeder might be fixed over the pit and the termites will enter it into harvest the lure.
If the wood has a flat surface, then make the hole from corners so you can line it up with the hole in the base of the feeder. If the access hole to the termites is on a round pole or another situation where you cannot repair the feeder to it, you can make a pouch of aluminium foil and duct tape to hold the bait in place.
If you're using the foil method, carefully pull back the edge of the tacky tape to inspect and to replenish the lure. If you're using the feeder method, it is not as disturbing if you can add more lure to the original feeder.
The termites you will see as dark brown nests high up in a tree are rarely pests of significance. Nevertheless, the main subterranean termites that do that 99 percent of the $damage we mentioned before, will often nest inside the central pipe or even hollowed out center of a mature tree. Mastos, the giant northern termite, dont always wait for the decay of the pipe.
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(Watch the special box on Mastos).
If at colonising flight period a termite couple find their way into a hollow tree through maybe a dead/broken-off branch or in through a scar from flame at the bottom they could not possibly have better conditions. Theres plenty to eat, moisture and protection. A 50 metre traveling to your residence would not be out of the question. .
If you have a large eucalypt, peppercorn or even a mature fruit tree nearby, you ought to check it. Utilize an 15-20mm auger bit long enough to look at this site drill into the centre of the trunk at approximately shoulder height. Drill at a slight downward angle and when you are feeling less resistance it will be because you have reached the pipe.
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If not, you could slip in a long thin grass leaf into the drill hole, then leave it there for a minute and withdraw it slowly. Termites may be found holding on, attacking it. If no live termites are found, return in half an hour or next morning; if there is termite life inside, they'll be repairing or have mended the opening using their mud mixture. .
In this situation you dont need to see live termites; its just more satisfying to know you've actually killed a colony when you choose the next steps
Re-open the drill hole when it's been repairedUsing a funnel, plastic tube and watering can/bucket, pour at least 20-30 minutes of a chlorpyrifos or a bifenthrin solution down into the shrub. These insecticidal concentrations can be purchased from a local hardware shop. They may be known by several brand names but the active ingredients are on the front panel of the tag.